Rue Mouffetard

While living in Paris in the late 90's, my classes were split between two universities, the famous Sorbonne, and the infamous Sorbonne Nouvelle (a.k.a. Paris III, "Censier"). Although the Sorbonne is more well-known, I will tell you that personally, I had a better reception, as well as better educational experience at Censier. Aside from the educational experience, I had a recurring cultural experience that was tied to Censier:

The idée fixe was a theme and variation on arriving and leaving the university. I always arrived at the Gare d'Austerlitz via RER C, and took the underground tunnels to the Jardin des Plantes. I walked into the Jardin's gate, and underneath the tree tunnels, glancing at the roses and other flowers, when the season permitted. I exited the Jardin through a gate next to the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle, and walk past the mosquée where I sometimes had tea, and pastry. A couple more blocks would take me to the communist-block-looking university of Censier.

Leaving, I would wind my way through different streets, but always with the goal in mind to visit my favorite street in Paris, Rue Mouffetard. Rue Mouffetard is a medieval, tortuous and narrow street lined with shops, vendors of seafood, vegetables, a butcher, and about anything else one might imagine. Later, scenes from Le Fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain would be filmed on Rue Mouffetard. Recall the scene where Amélie returns the box containing childhood memories to Dominique Bretodeau.

It normally took me about half an hour to walk from end to end. I never became bored with my strolls down the street, and let my French friends know of my obsession with the street. Subsequently, and on no particular occasion, I was given a children's book written by Pierre Gripari, entitled "The Witch of Rue Mouffetard."

It is basically a Hansel and Gretel variation where a girl, Nadia, is kidnapped by the witch of Rue Mouffetard. The witch believes if she eats a young beautiful girl topped with tomato sauce, and having a name beginning with N, she too will become young and beautiful. Nadia is eventually saved by her brother, Bachir. At the time, the book was perfect for my level of French reading comprehension, and a nice break from Astérix et Obélix.


After watching Jaws as a child, I felt certain there were sharks even in the swimming pools of my state which is a ten hour drive to the nearest ocean. Of course, I knew Jaws was but a story meant to scare. I will tell you dear, small-handful of readership, I have never felt scared, intimidated, or even vexed while strolling Rue Mouffetard after reading the little gem, "The Witch of Rue Mouffetard." I think the street is lovely and relaxing, but then again, according to the story, the witch would have no interest in me: I am a male, and my name does not start with N!