Showing posts with label preferred places. Show all posts
Showing posts with label preferred places. Show all posts

Monday, March 24, 2008

Picardie Gem

While riding my bike in the area between Champagne and Picardie regions of France, in the department of Aisne, I came across several "ghost villages" with deserted buildings. I also came across this church which is small, and overgrown with tall grass. It was not constructed in the typical Champagne style, more of a Picardie style; However, you have to drive another half hour northwest to start seeing everything constructed from brick, it does not suddenly become so upon crossing the Champagne/Picardie border.

Although I am not a fan of brick in general, there is something about this little church that made me return time and time again to take photographs of it. I do not think it would be half as charming without being overgrown.

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Listen!

Paris misses me* right now. Because of that, I will take the reader to the Metro "Les Halles", past the Tabac into the mall, past the many clothing shops offering les soldes, past the many food vendors, and up the stairs to the St. Eustache exit.**

In the St. Eustache courtyard known as the Place René Cassin is a humongous piece of sandstone art, "l'Ecoute"*** by Henri de Miller. The piece is simple, yet captivating. I like to buy a sandwhich in Les Halles, and eat it in front of the statue. The statue can be photographed from many different angles, and there is a way to take someone slightly behind the hand where it looks like the person is standing in the Listener's hand.

On a sunny day, I can pass an hour in the Place René Cassin in front of the statue that I find serene. It is one of my preferred places.

*Oui, elle me manque.
** Or just take the more direct Châtelet-Les Halles metro.
*** The Listener

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Rue Mouffetard

While living in Paris in the late 90's, my classes were split between two universities, the famous Sorbonne, and the infamous Sorbonne Nouvelle (a.k.a. Paris III, "Censier"). Although the Sorbonne is more well-known, I will tell you that personally, I had a better reception, as well as better educational experience at Censier. Aside from the educational experience, I had a recurring cultural experience that was tied to Censier:

The idée fixe was a theme and variation on arriving and leaving the university. I always arrived at the Gare d'Austerlitz via RER C, and took the underground tunnels to the Jardin des Plantes. I walked into the Jardin's gate, and underneath the tree tunnels, glancing at the roses and other flowers, when the season permitted. I exited the Jardin through a gate next to the Musée d'Histoire Naturelle, and walk past the mosquée where I sometimes had tea, and pastry. A couple more blocks would take me to the communist-block-looking university of Censier.

Leaving, I would wind my way through different streets, but always with the goal in mind to visit my favorite street in Paris, Rue Mouffetard. Rue Mouffetard is a medieval, tortuous and narrow street lined with shops, vendors of seafood, vegetables, a butcher, and about anything else one might imagine. Later, scenes from Le Fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain would be filmed on Rue Mouffetard. Recall the scene where Amélie returns the box containing childhood memories to Dominique Bretodeau.

It normally took me about half an hour to walk from end to end. I never became bored with my strolls down the street, and let my French friends know of my obsession with the street. Subsequently, and on no particular occasion, I was given a children's book written by Pierre Gripari, entitled "The Witch of Rue Mouffetard."

It is basically a Hansel and Gretel variation where a girl, Nadia, is kidnapped by the witch of Rue Mouffetard. The witch believes if she eats a young beautiful girl topped with tomato sauce, and having a name beginning with N, she too will become young and beautiful. Nadia is eventually saved by her brother, Bachir. At the time, the book was perfect for my level of French reading comprehension, and a nice break from Astérix et Obélix.


After watching Jaws as a child, I felt certain there were sharks even in the swimming pools of my state which is a ten hour drive to the nearest ocean. Of course, I knew Jaws was but a story meant to scare. I will tell you dear, small-handful of readership, I have never felt scared, intimidated, or even vexed while strolling Rue Mouffetard after reading the little gem, "The Witch of Rue Mouffetard." I think the street is lovely and relaxing, but then again, according to the story, the witch would have no interest in me: I am a male, and my name does not start with N!

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Butte de Chalmont

Latitude: 49°12'50.81"N
Longitude: 3°24'39.86"E

The Butte de Chalmont is the site of a work of art by Paul Landowski. It is located in the Picardie region of France, in the Department of Aisne. It lies within the triangle created by Reims, Soissons, and Château-Thierry.

Map View (Must have Google Earth). Photo Copyright 2007 Water Into Wine.

Historically it commemorates the 2nd battle of Marne, July 15 - September 16, 1918. The 2nd battle of Marne is known as the last German offensive, and would become the Allies first offensive. Casualties in the battle were estimated to be French (95,000), British (13,000) and United States (12,000) German (168,000). For detailed historical information, there are excellent sites here, here, here, here, and here.


At the bottom of the butte, there is a large statue of a woman, who personifies France, facing northeast over the Plateau du Tardenois. The inscription says "La France". There is a rocky trail that leads up the terraced butte. At the top of the butte is a conglomerate of many statues, which personify those lost in the battles. The inscription reads "Les Phantomes".


From the top of the butte is a beautiful view of the Plateau du Tardenois. One can easily climb on top of the phantoms for a photograph.


The site is a wonderful place to have a pique-nique, or even a casse-croûte, and a fantastic area for a ride on the bicyclette. Arrive via bicycle from Beugneux from the north, or Walée from the south. The perfect starting points for a bicycle ride/pique-nique are Fère-en-Tardenois (birthplace of Camille Claudel) due east of Butte de Chalmont or Neuilly-Saint-Front, due west.


A little slice of Pâté de Campagne on baguette with a few cornichons, Saucisse sèche, and a chausson aux pommes for dessert while overlooking the Plateau of Tardenois: very relaxing.